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[26 Jan 2011 | No Comment | ]

There is no type of dwelling that would not be absolutely perfect for custom cabinets. There are custom cabinets made for every type of building whether it be residential or commercial. There are custom office cabinets manufacturers, as well as kitchen cabinet design companies.
There are also businesses that specialize specifically in custom cabinets with a bathroom. The great thing about custom cabinets is that you can’t use what ever style, material and type you would like to use and there are virtually no limits to what you can do …

Wood Painting »

[6 Sep 2010 | No Comment | ]

1. Start preparing the woodwork by scraping off all the loose flaking paint. Large areas of unsound paint are better if stripped completely.
2. Sand and prime all the bare wood, taking care to work the primer well into cracks and any exposed end grain, then leave the surface to dry.
3. Where joints have opened up, scrape off the paint and rake out the gap with a knife or shavehook. Clean out all the loose debris.
4. Small cracks can be filled with putty, but use exterior-grade filler or waterproof stopping for …

Wood Painting »

[9 Aug 2010 | No Comment | ]

1. Apply the paint along the grain; with non-drip paint (left) you can apply thicker coats in one go without further spreading (brushing out).
2. Still working with the grain and without reloading the brush, paint another strip alongside the first one and blend the two together.
3. Reload the brush and apply strokes back and forth across the grain over the area you’ve just painted to ensure full, even coverage.
4. Now you must lay off the paint with very light brush strokes along the grain to give a …

Wood Painting »

[6 Aug 2010 | No Comment | ]

1. Before you can apply the paint you must fill any cracks or holes with wood filler (applied with a filling knife) and leave to dry.
2. Sand down the filled areas using medium-grade glass pa per. Wrap the abrasive around a sanding block or wood offcut so it’s easier to use.
3. Where paint has been chipped off, sand down the area and apply an ordinary wood primer to the bare wood using a small paintbrush.
4. When the surface of the wood is smooth, apply undercoat (as the maker recommends) arid …

Wood Painting »

[2 Aug 2010 | No Comment | ]
Painting Wood – Painting Large And Small Areas

Though the same principle applies to wood as it does to any other large surface area — i.e., you divide it into manageable sections and complete one before moving on to another — if you’re using an oil-based gloss paint you have to make sure that the completed area hasn’t dried to such an extent that you cannot blend in the new.
On the rare occasion that you might want to paint a whole wall of wood you should make the section no wider than a couple of brush widths and …

Wood Painting »

[29 Jul 2010 | No Comment | ]

You’ll often want to paint wood that has already been painted. How you tackle this depends on the state of the existing paintwork.
It it’s flaking off and is in generally poor condition, you will have to remove the entire paint system — primer, undercoat and top coat – by burning off with a blow-torch, applying a chemical paint stripper or rubbing with an abrasive. You then treat the stripped wood as already described for new wood.
Where the paintwork is in good condition, you simply have to clean it and sand …

Wood Painting »

[26 Jul 2010 | No Comment | ]

Polyurethane varnish is easy to apply; you simply brush it on, taking care to work with the grain of the wood. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions as to the number of coats you should apply and the time allowed between each coat — at least 12 hours. You should sand down the surface lightly with flour-grade glass paper between coats to provide a key for the next coat, and remove any dust that’s accumulated during application with a damp cloth.
As with paints, it’s advisable to stir the contents of any can …

Wood Painting »

[23 Jul 2010 | No Comment | ]
What Woods Can Be Painted?

In theory you can paint any wood under the sun. In practice, paint (solvent-based or emulsion, is usually applied only to softwoods spruce (whitewood), European redwood (deal), pine and the like — and to man-made boards such as plywood, blockboard, hardboard and chipboard.
Hardwoods and boards finished with hardwood veneers can be painted, but are usually given a clear or tinted finish to enhance their attractive colour and grain pattern.
Paint systems
If you’re decorating new wood, there’s more to it than putting on a coat of your chosen paint It would just …

Wood Painting »

[20 Jul 2010 | No Comment | ]

You can apply the stain with a brush or a folded lint-free rag. Aim to get the color you want in one coat: a second coat can be applied if needed to get a darker finish, but too many coats will result in the stain lying on the surface, lengthening the time it takes for the subsequent coat of varnish to dry and even preventing it from bonding properly to the surface.
With water-based types, if overlaps show when the first coat dries you can add about 20 per cent more …

Wood Painting »

[17 Jul 2010 | No Comment | ]
Bleaching Wood – DIY Guide

One of the snags with staining wood is that you cannot make the surface lighter; you can only make it darker, A light-colored stain on a darkish piece of wood just won’t work. The way round this problem is to bleach the wood before you start sealing it —and for this proprietary wood bleaches are available at most hardware stores.
Some bleaches are applied in one stage and others in two stages. The wood is washed with a neutralizing agent afterwards so the bleach doesn’t carry on working when the finish …