First impressions are of paramount importance, so the upkeep of the outside of your home should be at the top of your list of do-it-yourself priorities. As with interior decorating, time spent on essential preparation work will ensure the best possible result. It is best to start work at the top of the house and work down to the bottom.

Gutters and downpipes
Clear away any rubbish that has built up and pour one or two buckets of water into the gutter to clean the system. Modern plastic gutters should require little additional preparation, but older cast-iron systems are prone to rusting, which can leave ugly deposits on brickwork and render. Remove the rust with a wire brush, before priming and painting. When it comes to repainting the walls, the rust stains should be treated with a metal primer, otherwise they will show through the new finish.

Painted woodwork
Exterior painted woodwork includes features such as fascias, soffits and bargeboards, as well as entire surfaces such as weatherboarding (siding).

New woodwork should be sanded lightly, working with the grain. Remove any dust, then wipe with a cloth moistened with white spirit (paint thinner). Seal any knots with knotting solution (shellac), and fill holes or cracks. Existing paintwork should be washed down with a solution of sugar soap (all-purpose cleaner) and water, sanded and wiped off with a cloth moistened in white spirit. Scrape off flaking paint and any bare areas should be primed and undercoated in the normal way.

For weatherboard surfaces, wash down with a solution of sugar soap, using a hose and car-wash brush attachment to get up high. Leave to dry for a week. Replace any severely damaged sections and fill smaller cracks with a sealant (caulking). Punch in any protruding nails and cover with metal primer. Then prepare as for other woodwork.

Walls
Mould growth is a common problem on walls. Look out for small white, orange, yellow, green or black marks and tackle them immediately.

Apply an approved fungicide, or clean with a bleach solution in the ratio of four parts water to one part bleach. Leave the former for 24 hours, then wash off with clean water; bleach should be left for 48 hours before rinsing oft”.

Mould and fungal deposits are often signs of a more severe problem, usually damp. Check the condition of any damp-proof course, and look for leaky downpipes, defective rendering and problems with brickwork.

Persistent white patches, known as efflorescence, are easy to tackle. They occur on new masonry as it dries out and can be removed with a stiff brush. However, if efflorescence occurs on old masonry, it indicates an underlying damp problem, which must be tackled before any redecoration is attempted.

Masonry surfaces
A sound brick finish can be very attractive, so resist the temptation to obscure it with a coat of paint on a whim. Porous walls will need treating with a clear water repellent to prevent rainwater from seeping into them, but this may be the only treatment necessary.

Rendering
If existing render is in poor condition, cosmetic repairs may be made with an exterior-grade filler, while tiny cracks will normally disappear with the application of masonry paint. Many do-it-yourself enthusiasts will also feel confident about tackling larger areas of damage with a mortar mix. However, rendering a large area or a complete wall will be beyond the ability of most, and professional help should be sought.

The one exception to this rule is the application of a Tyrolean finish, which is produced with a light cement mixture. This is sprayed on with a hand-cranked Tyrolean roughcast applicator, which can be hired. It is possible to control the texture of the finish by varying the distance between the applicator and the wall. Similarly, you can vary the angle of application to create different effects.

This post was written by Adrian, the owner of tips for building a shed and Chicken shed plans.